The Handshake That Opened the Umkomaas Valley
- Gavin and Lisa Welsh
- 3 hours ago
- 5 min read
This didn't start as a business idea. It started with me paging through the Gaia GPS app looking for somewhere kiff and isolated to take Lisa for a weekend.
Gaia GPS is basically Google Maps for people trying to get off the map. I was scrolling around inland of the South Coast, following the Umkomaas River looking for something that looked magical from above, and there was this clearing sitting on a bend in the river. I couldn't stop looking at it, so we made a day of going to find it.
It took us four hours. The way in was long, but the views were unreal, and the drive was good fun. Looking down from the top, it reminded me of Inanda, that same drop-away view, and I remember thinking, how is this so close to home and I've never heard a single person mention it?
We carried on up and down through the valley and finally there it was. Water so clear you could see the bottom, fish eagles calling in the distance. I stood there thinking how many okes would love this, and the old cogs started turning. Maybe this could be a campsite.
It started with a guy next to the road
I got talking to a local man, Mr Khumalo, who owns land near the river. I told him roughly what was in my head; he told me about the area, and we swapped numbers before we left. He said he'd message the Induna for me.
I didn't think much would come of it. But it did. What came back was that I must come and meet the Induna myself. Face to face.
So I drove back down.
The Induna
We sat down, and I explained my vision. Bring a small convoy in, camp next to the river a night or two, and leave the place better than we found it.
It seemed to land, and soon, we were sitting under an old tree, explaining to the families living down that valley, the people whose lives are entwined with that river, what we wanted to do. It took a few trips back and forth, sitting with people and listening. Once everyone was comfortable, the Induna said he'd try to arrange a meeting with the Nkosi.
The Nkosi
A few days later, word came back that the Nkosi would see me.
I was told he lived “just over there,” which turned out to be hours away through the valley. And as I drove in with the Induna, people smiled and waved. It was awesome.
When we arrived, the Nkosi shook my hand, and I mean he properly shook it. One of those handshakes you feel in your shoulder afterwards. He explained that every decision he makes must be for the good of the people in the area. He had shisa nyama going, and after we chatted everyone was fed. Formalities on the one hand and this big warmth on the other.
That's the meeting where the whole thing either happened, or it didn't.
He said yes.
What we agreed
Access is something the Nkosi and the community grant us. It's not a right that comes with a booking fee.
So we keep the convoys small, ten vehicles max. The camp stays where they're happy for it to be. Everybody gets briefed before we leave the tar about whose place we're driving through. And every vehicle brings something in. Blankets, nappies, school stationery, toiletries, whatever fits in the back once the tent and cooler box are loaded. It goes straight to the Induna, who knows which families need what.
The water
These families live next to one of the country's largest rivers and still don't have clean drinking water. It gets carried up from the Umkomaas, untreated, every single day, because there's no other option.
That's where the Umko Clean Water Project comes from. We're putting in a permanent clean drinking water solution for the community that makes these trips possible. Afripumps and Africa Tanks have already come to the party, covering much of what it takes to get water from the river to somewhere safe to drink. We're still short of a 3-stage big blue filtration system, plus the plumbing supplies and bits needed to install it.
If your business can help us get that last bit done, I'd like to hear from you.
What a Run Wild Tour looks like — “The Great Umko River Run”
We meet on the N2 at Umgababa at 6am, run through the route and convoy procedure over coffee, and we're moving at 7. Off at the Scottburgh offramp to Dududu and that's the last stretch of tar you'll see. From there it's 112km of gravel through the hills, past villages and countryside that most South Africans will never lay eyes on. The river keeps appearing below the road and gets bigger the further you go. There are viewpoints where the whole convoy just stops.
The days are for the river. Tubing, swimming, kayaking, throw a line in if you've got the patience, or sit under a tree and do nothing. Late afternoon, the wood smoke comes up through camp, and I get dinner going. A spit-roast with rolls and roast veg, a build-a-burger night, or a chicken potjie with home-made pot bread, depending on how many nights you're joining us for. When the sun goes down, the Milky Way puts on a show and the guitars come out. After we serve breakfast there's no plan whatsoever, the days are yours to do as you please.
It's proper wild camping. No electricity, no running water, an Arbor eco loo, zero signal. The route is gravel rather than technical, so kitted 4x4s run in the same convoy as standard SUVs and high-clearance 2x4s.
One, two and three night runs, ten vehicles max. Dates and what's included are on the site.
We'd love you to join us down there. Come see the valley, meet the people who made it possible, and bring something in the back for the families who live there.
If your business can help us finish the Umko Clean Water Project, get hold of us.
Book your adventure at The Great Umko River Run
Contact: Gavin Welsh
062 765 9112
This article is written by Gavin and Lisa Welsh, KhakiBush Magazine contributors, tour guides, adventurers, foodies, explorers and passionate campers. Together, they live life to the fullest, exploring Africa’s wild places, discovering incredible destinations, sharing good food and embracing every adventure along the way.
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